Custom MHS: “trim ring-sleeves”
Ive been kicking around this idea for a bit..and actually got started working a few POC's..
however I just dont think they will get the fit or finish or really the customization and coolness 'reached' if these are done by myself.. they need Tims new CNC stuff or ACe..somebody to make them 'top notch'..
such as taper or other mill work..
I think I can only do a few 'styles' with my tools.
anyways.. I tried to explain it to Tim.. but a picture is better..
it follows sorta the same principle as the trim rings do.. the ID is just bit enough to go around the male threads..but not big enough to go around the OD of the MHS parts.. (hence being locked/sandwiched down by the two parts)
well instead of a 'ring' how more of a sleeve.. for decoration.. longer/bigger bezels for switches.. or cut outs for switches..
use them at top or bottom (pommel side)..and pretty much reversible.. could be purely cosmetic.. or functional..
thoughts?
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Here is one of the P.O.C's (proof of concepts) for my mhs add-on, dubbed, accent trim..
this is only one..but I displayed in both a 'header' and pommel piece/usage.. and I think I really dig the pommel way..
anyways.. no mill or cut out for buttons/switches on this one.. but I think have TWO of these would balance out any hilt nicely.
also.. since it locks down by the pommel or BH or whatever female threaded piece.. you could use an additional set screw to secure it..
and you could have a rotating/sliding 'cover' to display/reveal re-charge ports.. xstal chambers..etc..
anyways.. on to the pics:
the solo part I made:
Mock'd up on a saber/test hilt:
as header:
Mock'd up as a pommel:
Quick little add-on of brass ring 'section' to spice it up..
and a size/perspective/overall shot to see how it comes together..
feedback appreciated gang!
overall I, myself am giving both the BH mod with shroud project and the MHS accent trim project passing grades.
I feel they are quality additions, that do NOT take away from MHS, utilize its parts still along with custom parts and customization to make things unique, adding depth and personal choice/taste
I also think these are mods that will add to your final price point when selling.. as they are 'new ideas' will havent 'caught on' yet, and many of can do here.. or have done without it taxing anyones wallet..
with Tims new CNC engraving and mill work.. these accent trim parts and shrouds should be getting some special treatment!
thanks
Joe Jedi Control Box Use: 2
Im always looking to re-use or hack existing parts.. MHS.. heatsinks..whatever..
I had originally played with these control boxes and mounting a PLI in them (dimensions are almost spot on)..
I never have any 'cover' on them..and they looked a bit 'steampunk/unfinished'.. (not the type of fit & finish "I" like)..
may a few.. and was done.. other day.. got back to working on one for a buddies MHS OBI I am making him.. (no clamp.. just this contol box)
I figured Id share for a few reasons..
1.) it actually came out fairly good.. I made a black one and a 'brass' one..
2.) anyone can make these..no special equipment needed
3.) makes use of old or existing 616 parts..
4.) total was really only a few bucks. (@ your local ACE hardware..some brass flat .99 ..and a 'brass channel' $2.49)
this may get a PLI mounted in it as well..
and the cover will get a slit/slot cut out in it for the leds to shine through..
alternatively.. you can put fill in the sides where I am mounting switches/buttons.. and keep the space under the cover blank/empty for switches..
"OR" see the GHETTO PCB 4 U thread..and make/etch your own PCB and fake resistors and diodes..etc.. and mount in it there..like on the OG graflex's
(and I also posted a pic of an OLD AoF pommel I had two of..that I modified.. and added in some 'rubber grip' pieces..
Front.. close cover:
Top cover open: (bottom has holes to run wires) (you can see both slider switch and mom. switch on each side)
Side:
Slider Switch side:
Mom. Switch side:
AoF Pommel mod:
Since I have a few of these.. I have some without the switch stuff cut out..
but I was thinking the slider switch will be for the PLI...
*always on (unless kill key is in of course)
*off
*on when saber on
Be cool to fit in battery in there! pop it out to charge it up..pop back in!..
anways.. this thing is a space saver fits on the outside of a 2" extension piece..
single (middle) point mounting, means no worries about using it at top under a bladeholder/heatsink 
feedback is always appreciated.
Thanks
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oops.. the pics..
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also...one more last pic... before final steps are done..
quick mock up of the PLI inserted..
not fully installed..(you can see the wires still)..
but you get an idea of how it'll work & fit.
you can also see the new 'cover' I am making for it.. to let the leds shine through..
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I think I might have to re-do the sides (again)..
the problem at hand is how to get the PLI to sit a bit LOWER in the box..
I have a few options..but none will really gain me MUCH more space in lowering it..
alternately..re-doing the sides and making them a bit taller would work.. but will it throw off the visual looks of it with it being taller and not 'as' flush?
anyways.. anyone/everyone can make these..
takes about $4.00..but you should be able to make 2 out o the materials..
At my local Ace Hardware store.. (just like everyone else).. we ave a little Brass/Aluminum/Copper section for hobby metals..robs, tubes...flat/sheet...etc..etc..
one of the pieces they have is RECTANGULAR tubing.. not very wide at all..but a few random sizes..
I grab one of the bigger pieces..and then the FLAT brass strip you see in the pics..
cut it long ways....and down the 'vertical' axis..not the horizontal.. (see pic)
you'll be left with two pieces like this:
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- -
you dont need the bottom 'lip'.. so shave/and it off... so you're left with an upside down "L" shape:
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thats basically it.. LOL
make another set just liek this.. but make them SHORTER (not as tall).. so just sand/shave down MORE wen taking off that bottom lip.
this is the basis of your 'shelf' system.. so you can slide the brass cover into place..
_ _ _ _
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you can then do the same..of course smaller width.. for the 'width' of the box..and to keep the 'sides' secure and not loose.
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ok.. to finsh it up more or less..
the PLI cover/cutout window..
my question to you guys is:
to secure the PLI...
should I:
a.) try and use some screws/bolts to lock the PLI down?
Id of course like to do this UNDER the cover.. but if not..might have to go THROUGH the cover.. ending the removable/sliding aspect of it.
b.) raise the sides a bit to compensate for the 'thickness' of the PLI?..then I can mount the PLIS down.. glue or secure the sides in.. and the cover can be removable?
sorry about the finger prints.. did a quick buff on the pieces to take a pic for YOOUZZ GUYZZ..
Joe Jedi Control Box Use: 1
I have been working on a few PLI housing/control boxes for some of my builds..
figured Id share the latest mock-up/model with everyone.
this isnt perfect..but its a mock-up.. I have a few that turned out nice.. black & silver also, with & without 'bands' style..
uses the PLI from the store.. and fits perfectly..
mounted a mini latching slide switch (DPDT) for the main power..
on this particular pictured...(since I am testing out a layout to be used with a Plecter Dimmer) sports a momentary tactile button on the other side to set the options of the board without having to be 'inside'. (personal preference really)
but could be anything, or used for whatever AUX you like.. instead of a slide switch I have also mounted a few momentary push buttons in that area.. with some 'covers/caps'' (they look nice)..
what you dont see pictured is any covers.. still working on a few.. nothing Im super stoked on.. the LEDS are off-set and not centered.. so its hard for me to find a balance in the cover design with what I have found so far. 
My idea is always to make things FUNCTIONAL and look clean/smooth in all my designs/builds.. this lets me house MANY things without much worry about where I need to drill holes in my MHS parts...:) its just one whole to get all wire through.. the hole on a pre-drilled hilt is plenty big for example..
I have also made other version of this that DO NOT have a 'real' PLI.. but in fact just a strip of colored LEDS.. (looks great..but is just eye candy/accent LEDS).
I was hoping Jay-Gon-Jin would have come up with some thing like this on those brass runs he did.. they were sorta close.. Also surprised there isnt any 'parts' like this available in the store or other 'outlets'..
Custom MHS BH #3:
I posted asking a few questions on PC'ing..
this was inspired a while back from Big EZ's Tactile build.. (which seems to have been a trend lately)... but was supposed to have a 'trigger guard' built in..
it does.. but Im not 100% happy with it.. (taken from a toy gun from my kids).. looks 'ok' after paint (maybe better)..
I have one more guard I wanna try (hoping it will fit better or a mount solution will reveal itself to me!)
anyways..
here are some pics of the WIP build..
modified BH
custom shroud
v-groove
3" extension (modified)
stock MHS pommel
I also fubar'd my 3" extension.. (pics below)..LOL
so I need to grab another off the bench and mod it again.... goes to show.. do NOT PUSH the amount you can turn down an MHS part! (especially by the threads!)
anyways.. figured Id post a few pics.. and what NOT to do to your MHS parts! LOL.
before I messed up the 3" extension:
Broken piece in place:
all three mod'd BH's with custom shrouds (3 so far...and I think last..I have 3 'longer' versions that are similar to a 'graflex' top in length (not quite) that go over not only the BH's..but part of the main body as well..... too bad it'll be seen as a rip of Slothfurnace graflex build that uses it...cause the firstone is very similar.
some other junk too.. my first red/sith build (bottom)
and an attempt to make a 'clean'.. future'ish saber.. very clean..nothing but liquid chrome 'look'.. (working on the MC type buttons..but a bit more 'recessed'
and my mistake: =(
any thoughts or ides on the trigger/guard is appreciated.. Im really NOT digging using plastic or salvaged from a toy.... but not sure what else?
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I PC'd it..
as well as the v-groove..
still on the fence
1.) do I remove the PC from the 'ribs/nubs' on the v-groove? (and pc them trans gold?)
2.) do I do everything that is in bare aluminum in trans gold? (nubs and BH..and pommel)
keep in mind the 3" exntension is there as a filler..cause the other one broke.. needs to be turned down still.. and some visual mods/grooves added..
that will also be black.
suggestions on 1 & 2?
sorry only one pic ATM... the others were kaka..
Custom MHS BH #2:
my second attempt for a shroud was to make one NOT so bulbous/wide.... (but after having that fatter one..and seeing the newer 'skinnier' one that isnt NOT much wider than stock MHS width... I doubt I'll do anything else BUT the fatter ones now..they just look and feel so much 'nicer'.)
figured Id post some pics of this second see what you guys think..
these BOTH utilized OLD BH's I had on my bench that had been used for mock ups..sizing..etc..and had been pretty beat up..and useless.. until they were used in this shroud/revamp project..
the other one used a BH#3.. this one uses a BH#1 that was modified a bit like a graflex holder..(in my mind) lol
feedback appreciated.. love it...hate it... (pack it up and go home douche` bag!.. whatever ya got!) =)
pic of base BH now:
with shroud (front)
side:
side 2:
compare shit to it on a random hilt ..and next to the other one for size check:
Custom MHS BH #1:
Hey gang-
Cut the lawn today... and while my boys discovered the game 'kick the can' (LOL).. I got a couple hours in the garage today! (woot)
(man..without a mill this kind of stuff is a PITA!) lol
I had mentioned this long ago as an option in the TCSS store.. (shrouds, overlays..etc).. generic enough to customize/spice up ones saber
(before Tim had CNC milling etc..etc)
figured Id give my had at one.. (I recommend using a thinning wall tube than I did!) haha
anyways.. tell me what ya think.. I turned down an MHS bladeholder.. and bored out my stock to match..
then turned down the OD to what I felt looked/felt 'ok'...
the "S"-curve was done by hand..bandsaw, sander...files.. (buffer)...yadda yadda..
and what it looks like on a hilt..
feedback is appreciated..
thanks guys..
xCore: #1 (HAL)
I dont think I ever posted these (I didnt see them at least in this thread)
I expanded on my 'xCore' (cough cough)..lol..
to make in more like others (Goodman, Big Ez commented on..etc..etc) about making the 'core' a stand alone unit..
I tried to make it generic enough to work as many build as possible.. (chokes etc..probably wont work without custom install & wiring..)
I made a couple like this where the battery pack, crystal chamber, LED & switch housing is all on unit.
I can fit 2AA & a USB board in the battery compartment, behind the speaker....so speaker, battery & US board.. think of TCSS all-in-one sound system with a 'sleeve' over it..
I went for mounting the switch as HIGH as possible tot he LED as I could.. about 1" down from TOP of led heatsink )a lot less from bottom of heatsink)
the 'crystal' stems/holders both were made to hold 3mm chrome bezels from RadioShack.. the backs are count ersunk to hold nut and screw in place to lock.
so each one 'can' have an led in it same color, different colors.. RGB accent leds..etc..
I dont have any crystals yet to play with..
but the led holder stems will be cut down (faced) to make them a little smaller....as well as the brass rods/threaded rods.. to match whatever crystal I end up using.
right now I think its about little over 1" long crystal room..
after final cuts, it will be around 6.5" I'd say..
these were all rough cuts, eyeing things up for the most part.... using junk/crappy jigs..
once I get some measurements, prototype results..I can make some nicer ones sanded and polished..etc..
switch is illuminated switch of course..
you can see light here..
checking out different 'stems' and switch caps/heads... most have hole drilled in shaft to let light through..
most of the sections are 'modular'.. and can be broken off from the 'main' core (if you will).. to work with specific saber designs..
all of these of course take advantage of the MHS 'locking' feature for the speaker and/or the heatsink..
I 'piggy' back off one of those (depending on the saber design and the core design).. and use that part to lock & secure my whole core down.
in these pics.. they are actually in-accurate.. that is a stock width speaker holder I am using..
however (unless I measure perfectly).. because I am using the heatsink to lock my core down..I need to turn down the the OD of the speaker holder...so it can fit inside of the hilt body...
the holder needs to be turned down 'slightly' t be used with the sleeve/bucket.. but the OD needs to be turned down more for it to fit into a MHS hilt..
wiring is tricky..you can only get some many wires up the small 'false tube'.. I think I got 7 or 8 up there..small gauge.
and getting 2AA and a US board in there..take some serious Eastern cram-fu. but it works.
I think I can make that small OD false brass rod a bigger (normal sized) one to allow for more wire room.
anyways.. its pretty clean wire wise. all hidden.
some decorative lathe & mill work on the parts/sleeve and they could be pretty slick looking.
feedback appreciated..
thanks
Prototype chassis: #1
So the wife and kids were gone for a few hours today! WOOT!..and I had some time to get in the garage..
I worked on a prototype of a crystal chamber Ive had in mind.. not too much different that all the other versions I have seen..
I basically got the idea from using to inverted heatsink type pieces and others may have done..
the smaller end is bored out to hold the actual crystal.. but I have also drilled and counter sunk the inside to hole a LED w/holder..
same can be done with the top end (to hold an led) to do two different colors..same color..or left empty..
all holes to hold the brass rod is counter sunk so they hold..with threaded rod internally..
the 3rd smaller rod is counter sunk as well....and has no threaded rod.. it will be sandwhiched between the two 'plates'/holders...and be empty so you can run wire through it (like in the pic).
I have been working on several different versions of the 'holders'... which you could mix-n-match I suppose
1.) is a 1.25 OD...so it can fit inside the normal MHS parts.. (its not pictured in the images however)
2.) the one that is pictured..used the same type of approach the heat sink does..smaller that the internal threads ID..but bigger then the inside of the MHS ID.. so it gets caught on the 'lip'...and can be wedged down by screwing a male part.. keeping it tight..
3.) same as #2 but its THICKER..so it can be used in the pommel areas...
(I have been trying to think or or work out a way to secure a speaker to the end nicely..I was thinking just a little extended part to secure things too..and use the hollow rod to run wires through... the flip side of this is..trying to get a version that gives a knock-off LDM crystal pommel... and NOT block the speaker/sound... but that will need some redesign.
what ya guys think?
side/profile pic.. image same thing on top (not pictured)..but with either a disk OD that is 1.25 or 1.31 using to 1.31 sized OD disks..means you could make one that fits nicely and secure in one of the crystal chamber MHS parts.. or just fit inside the ID of an MHS part
bottom: (there is an led and I bored out big enough so you can use tweezers or clips to secure the nut on the led holder)
top/led shot:
no SaberForge jokes.. the grease/grit is still there... LOL it can all be wiped off...and polished up.. none its chatter or scratches....LOL
I didnt have alot of spare brass rod and threaded rod.. od I would have made some more mocks of it with a sound board...batteries.. but you get the idea..use your imagination.
This might be a god idea for "Tim" to looking into...
with professional craftsmanship... these would be NICE!.. all holes counter sunk to correct depth.... all rods cut to perfect exact length.. (not on a bandsaw by hand and eyed up!) LOL
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I was thinking it can be expanded to be something like this.. want more room..add another disk..and any size/length brass/threaed rod..
problems/changes
1.) rods need to be a little closer to the 'center' so if you use nuts to lock in a 'middle' disk (so to speak).. it has room..I think my clearance now is slim to none..LOL
2.) using acorn nuts at the bottoms is a wash..if you plan on locking down/sandwiching the disk with a male part.. however we might be able to just partially 'thread' a hold so you can thread the threaded rod into it..no acorn/flat nut needed on the BASE (of one end at least).. if you wanted to lock 'two' bases by male threads..one might need to be left hand threaded?? if one internal and one a sandwiched one.. acron/flat washers could be used no problems..
thoughts?
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heres an update.. I had a few hours in the garage yesterday..and revised some rough cut pieces.... its pretty versatile.. (IMHO)
as stated above.. I planned to take use of the already built in 'locking/securing/sandwiching' systems that all MHS parts utilize.. an that it by default all threaded parts leave a gap.. and this is for the thickness of either a heatsink.. or a speaker holder (if its a pommel)..
so that is what I based how to secure this 'core/chamber..etc)
these are ALL PROTOTYPES.. ROUGHT CUTS.. no fine cuts.. no filing,sanding/polishing..etc.. and only 1 jig used.. that was eyed up..
all disks/sections.. come in 2 thicknesses..
1.) regular heatsink thinkness
2.) speaker holder thickness
all disks/option are either:
1.) heatsink OD
2.) 1.25 ID (to inside of MHS parts)
3.) smallest size that fits in the RIBBED sections
What size disk you use depends on your set-up and where, how you want to mount/use it.
this set-up is using the SPEAKER holder as the MOUNTING area.. where as the pommel secures locks down the speaker holder..(and hence the 'core section' is secure to that with a center drilled/tapped middle (not pictured)
So its (going up)
speaker bucket / crystal chamber / extra space for sound board and/or battery pack..
same pic on its side:
same as the ABOVE pictures in the previous post.. the 'stems' are drilled out and counter sunk to hold the LED and holders in place.. and secure with another counter sunk hole for the nut.
Also all brass rod holes are counter sunk.
[img width=589 height=768]http://dmstudios.net/misc/prototype-1a/core_prototype-1b/ledHolder.jpg">
I made a little speaker bucket.. that holds a slightly turned down speaker holder.. (only the portion behind the lip was turned down)
(I put a little space between the speaker bucket and the bottom of the crystal stem..sing tiny brass rod sections.. gives a little gap to run a wire to the led in the bottom holder
it is deep enough to have room for the acorn nuts..and hide wires..or even snake more through for a bottom re-charge port..
speaker holder is stock OD at widest point..so I can slide it in a a threaded opening on most MHS parts.. and lock it down with either a pommel
I even made another speaker holder that has OD of 1.25 so the whole speaker/holder & bucket can sit flush inside (ID) of a regular MHS part..
if you go this route... you obviously will not be using the speaker holder/pommel to lock/secure the core...
so you would need to use a disk/section that can be locked down by a choke or blade holder..erc
I made some with and without the crystal stem/holder end..
so its really however you want to design it... crystal chamber & speaker.. or add another section to hold a sound board..or battery pack (just another disk and some brass rod w/threaded rod) cut to whatever length you need/want
you could use this secure/trap a crystal chamber in a ribbed section that has a section cut out..
just use a disk that can be secured by another male threaded part...and a disk that has the OD of the ribbed section ID..to keep things nice and tight..
as a final part to this.. Im working on a variation that uses (is) the heatsink for the LED..
this would make this all one unit/core/chamber piece...
here us JUST a speaker and chamber combo:
[img width=258 height=768]http://dmstudios.net/misc/prototype-1a/core_prototype-1b/speaker-chamber.jpg">
There is a 'falsey' brass tube that is hollow just to run wires cleanly..
another pic of the base that secures/locks down like heatsink
free floating speaker to give more res. chamber for sound..
all bases with stems can have an LED... 1 color, 2 colors, RGB LED in there..
all bases withOUT stems are half threaded holes.. no through holes..except for the falsey brass/wire hole..
thoughts/ discuss? love/hate? ideas? suggestions?
Thanks
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Illuminated Switches: (tiny)
OK.. I talked to the vendor off & on a few times.. and basically for a higher price (and if they are in stock).. he will mix-n-match some switches (led colors) and caps for me:
to re-cap:
pics of the sample switches they sent me..
according to the spec sheet:
http://www.rjselectronics.com/PDF/PB613x.pdf
page 2 of 5
it says Switch Action/terminals
Normal ON:
1-2
4-5
Push to Lock/Off
2-3
5-6
the pics are little 'distorted' because of either my shaky hands.. or taking a pic of the LED lit up..
1.) I took all the silver paint off the cap..so the whole thing lights up.. (pretty sick).. tip: to NOT leave the soft plastic/rubber base in while doing it
2.) the second is the default cap with the ring in it.
using the same mounted base.. Im not sure what other colors I got in the 'samples'..
RING:
SOLID:
what we have available to us is:
COLORS:
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
BLUE
CAPS:
BLACK
SILVER
I only asked about getting the RING style (as pictured) but in black and silver (silver is pictured)
If there is enough interest.. I will try to scrounge up the rest of the loot to get an order..
Im thinking they will go for about $5 each shipped..
let me know.
Thanks
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I had made comment about it previously..and am just now getting around to posting the pics I took of these..
My first attempt at using (mounting) these was much along an early Jay-Gon approach using a PVC 'ring' or semi-ring that could 'flex'.. but that solution left things very close to being a 'one way' switch install without potential damage...
so I began to think about alternate ways to mount these (or other difficult mounting switches)..
when I saw Erv's post about modifying the CAPS.. it reminded me to post what i came up with.
Ervs way of modifying the caps is awesome.. (I'll be doing a few like that for sure).. but not everyone has access to a lathe like we do....
it also leaves you stuck with the having a cap style of choice with the bottom ready to 'snap' to the switches stem..
my approach sorta gives you more room to be able to utilize different (metal, ala Madcow) style switch caps for example.
my first prototype was made from not wanting to waste such a small DPDT latching type switch..(just because I had blown the LEDS in 2-3 of them..)..ssshhhh
Something that could fit and be easily mounted inside (1.25 ID) a hilt of a normal MHS section..
and also allow for easy cap fitting from the outside.. (like Erv showed on modifying the cap OD)
I also took it one step further...and drilled out the stem on one of the thumbscrews so I can mount any type of head I want on it.. (even one with epoxy in it, similar to the screws that let light show through)
its basically a section/ring of 1.25 OD aluminum tubing...with some screws and speed nuts..etc.. with some thread aluminum spaces.. everything can be purchased at Ace Hardware or the like..for a couple bucks..tops.
might throw a dab of hot glue over it just to make sure it doesnt loosen up..but its been very stable so far..thrown all over the place..for weeks now..
I'll get the rest of the pics up, of the threaded stem being illuminated..
(I just need to put he dab of epoxy or something in the tube to diffuse the light more..)
the last pic is where the dab of epoxy will go..
Im hoping it will look like an illuminated, metal 'Madcom' style switch.
the cool thing is..with this 'ring' type set-up.... (much like my approach to chassis' and crystal chambers...etc) it utilizes the pre-built MHS 'feature' of the space in the threads... and to lock down the ring..
this one in the picture fits (tightly) in a 2" section.. in the space left over by the HEATSINK drop down...and having one of my chassis 'disks' locked in by male threads on the other end..
so whats that? a little over 1/4 inch or so?
not 'precision' made, (Im sure others could made a better looking one)...but its not too bad..and you dont need anything fancy... drill/drill press and maybe a sander to grind the sides flat.
feedback? thoughts? improvements?
I'll get some of the illuminated ones posted...
anyone have a suggestion on what to fill the top with first? (epoxy/hot glue)?
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Yeah..looks a little more 'technical'.. and isnt an eye sore in a build..
I have even integrated this 'ring' section into one of my chassis disks (so its all one piece of aluminum)..
so the chassis disk 'portion' gets sandwiched between the male threads and the internal threading 'lip'..and this switch mounting 'section' is after that (still all one piece of aluminum..just turned down a bit for the OD to fit the ID.).
this diagram might help..
Heavy dueling? I guess I couldnt say.. "I"personally dont duel..
but they are fairly sturdy.. I mean Ive thrown what you seen in the picks around..at walls.. dropped it.. nothing ever moved or popped out of place..
but as I said.. I'll probably just throw a dab of hot glue in the corners to secure it more so nothing gets un-threaded or anything..
but how much 'pressure' you think it'll have on it? and from where? (what point?)
depending on how you implement this type of approach in your project..
(unless the rest of your 'guts' are free floating and sliding all around).. Id say this 'option' whether it be part of another 'disk/section' locked down, or its own ring not secured by anything expect the 'threaded post' of the switch will function & hold up well.
thanks for the looks and comments.. hope someone finds it useful..
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I dont think I ever really posted these images (in public at least) haha..
these are sorta old.. (about the time when I first found these switches and got some samples..and was left with mounting quandaries) ..at the time I was altering a JGJ approach I had seen in some build thread or something..
BEFORE I started working on the 'modular chassis disk' business.....(which is a much nicer looking and more versatile system) haha
I used what I had available and much of it was hardware stuff..pvc/plastic.
I still find these regular golf club protectors/tubes to be GREAT for chassis building.... and I have used them a few times in the past for stuff..
I have my 4.8v Nihm battery pack (the one that TCSS used to sell a while back).. and a speaker mount..
the project this was for has a pommel mount recharge port:
filed 'channels' into the speaker mount so I could run wires past it to the pommel for the RCP..
other end had a 3 wire connector (GND, V++ and speaker) to connect to other sections..
(these innards are very modular themselves)..
battery/speaker section
switch section
sound/driver board section
**legs/ladders on the ends with holes in them..as that is where the switch ring mounts/connects to that piece (very rigid)
soundboard/driver board:
using part of PCV and old 616 mount..
I have, the 616, Plecter dimmer, 2 clash sensors.. (before we did bulk order..thanks AK)..
I think I studied with Eastern to get some cram-fu lessons in this thing (**bonus pic at end)
use the top/lid of film canister to make a 'cap' so to speak so nothiner metal would short out on the switch mount ring/chassis
all 3 section together get me this:
all of it fit inside MHS ID.. the the speaker sanded to press fit and it 'tight' and secure..
its nice little core... nothing fancy since its plastic and a little hot glue in places..
here is a pic of the ring mounted in the battery/speaker section..
wires are tight & clean... (I could have probably shortend some of these in hind site to make fit easier).. every is of course heatshrinked and everything is in male/female connectors..
switch has connector (so it can be serviced)
speaker/battery section has connector
led is of course quick connect as well...
for bonus points..
I solders a clash sensor to plecter dimmer for the flicker effect on clash (needs fairly fresh batteries to see it well)
I also soldered a momentary switch to the plecter dimmer board so you can access the menu and change the flicker effect, ramp up/down times..etc..
and mounted it in the 616 board.. looks nice..
no wires seen on top.. so if you want to switch the sound font to be jedi or sith..you can also use the momentary button to access/set the dimmer options as well
these switches.. are 'very cool' IMHO.. and being illuminated shows even more possibles.. (watch for 'custom' illuminated switch heads post soon)
I think these way of mounting is VERY practical..
why?
it can be done by any/everyone with or without a lathe.. 1.25 OD tube.. a tube cutter.. a drill/drill press.. and a sander
it can be incorporated into other 'sections' of a chassis fairly easy..
when you see the version that is incorporated into the modular chassis disk it makes it 'all' look so nice and professional.. instead of a nice chassis.. (made out of whatever).. and then some button/switch hot glued or wires running long was down the chassis..
anyways..hope you all like..and it helps others mount these switches (or anything for that matter.. tiny recharge port of Easterns for example..) (hint hint)
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wrap this thread up..
here are some of the pics of the switches and the colors of the LEDs (while on)..
you can see the style of caps Ive been using/making to:
1.) deal with easier mounting
2.) still utilize the illuminated/led option of the switches.
these have hot glue in the caps to diffuse the light.. (its too 'clear', something more 'foggy' is needed to diffuse better)
(I also think the small 'hole' in the threaded stem limits maximum illumination as well..)
I have another pic (cant find where I saved it!?) haha.. showing how 'low profile' you can get with alternate cap/heads (like a metal thumb screw)
I think either turn down the stock caps OD/base on a lathe..or making a custom stem/cap combo is he best way to go for these...
with the aluminum 'heads/caps' picture above.. you can actually almost 'flush mount' them depending on the 'ring width' on where internally it is mounted in your part.
later...
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update: thanks to tip provided by 'erv', these switches can be both (default) latching.. and after a mod can also be a momentary switch! great tip! and makes these even MORE useful.