PoC: Custom MHS heatsink pcb (for my Obi TPM)
was going to post this in the 'idea thread'.. but figured just make its own thread for it..
another step in my OBI TPM saga.. lol
trying to keep the size as accurate as 'I' can, and still having it be somewhat MHS based at the core...
I was stuck on finding out a way to use the stock switches as real, functioning switches for my hilt.
(Ive always been keen on the all-in-one core ideas... but have the switches on/in the core and some sort of cap/plunger on the outside has always been a PITA for me... here and there a few ideas have came out/been used)
for the OBI.. when everything was done,.. the switch holes would go (more or less) at the same exact level of the MHS heatsink.. so I need to adjust that a bit.. and also find a way to mount some switches in that area..
I had mulled over Madcows switch approach. but just wasnt a good fit..
so I came up with a custom, round PCB, that mounts to the underside of the heatsink..and is secured using the same nylon screws that hold our luxeon star pcbs. (MHS hack!)
here is my prototype..
the bike valve switch will have an SMD led in it.. (like they normally do).. to light up the purple gem in the valve end. I just didnt put it back in yet..from doing the momentary mod to the switch (latching by default)
I also didnt clip the extra leads from the switches yet.. but I believe the idea is sound.. and can open up the doors for others to use the same idea/approach.. (nned to mount a unique switch?.. make a pcb for it!)
I posted a tut on how to etch your own pcbs..etc.. using your home laser printer and photopaper..
1.) make pcb deisgn in photoshop..
2.) print to photo paper
3.) iron to your copper clad board.
you get this:
etch and you are left with your laser printer traces (covering the copper underneath)
remove toner: (pcb is left)
Like Erv taught us.. pre-tin folks!
bend my switch leads underneath..and the other row down:
other switch:
on heatsink:
I dont have a red thumbscrew with the correct threads yet.. but you can see it mocked up there.. (screws right in from outside of hilt)
when heatsink is in MHS part.. it lines up with the holes perfectly.. (cant see it so good in pic_ =(
feedback always welcome..
hope this helps others get past road blocks in their projects!
thanks
Custom/MHS OBI-TPM (hybrid)
ok..so this has been on the burner.. for....well for a long time actually.. I sorted started it when I saw Obi-Dar posted his build start...
it was shelved.. as I didnt care for the route I was taking at that moment....
anyways did some more work on it.. and here is where I am at.. figured Id get some feedback..
I think it looks a bit 'weird' to me because there are no cut-outs in the shroud/emitter yet..(Im hoping thats all it is!..lol)
as far as being an 'exact dup' in dimensions.. its of course not.. (its no ACE OBI TPM to be sure, spot on with awesome machining) 
.. 'but'..its not that far off from the dimensions I got on-line.... the most notable place is the main hilt 'OD'.. which will mostly be cut away so I dont think it will have that much effect on the final look... every thing else is exact or a not 'too bad'...
overall length is over 11".. but little under 11.5 if I recall..
feedback is appreciated of course. 
things/areas to work on.. (although its not complete of course).. or things that should be re-done perhaps?
Thanks.
(Im no photographer!)
The parts used:
1 x Ace Obi TPM pommel
2 x 1.5 sink tube adapters (turned down to be 1.39 OD and faced to be roughly over 1")
1 x 1.25 'core' aluminum tube so it has a 1.25 choke section (slightly modified to meet ID of one of the adapters I used)
1 x MHS BH #3 turned down to be 1.39 OD)
1 x custom hilt shroud ID bored to 1.39...OD to match the TPM as best I could..
1 x custom shroud ring/support for the top end which has a bit larger OD and design
1 x custom emitter shroud ID bored to 1.39 (OD has a bit of a lip/larger OD than the rest for the 'top ring")
1 x custom 'ring' taking a cue from Randy/Obi-Dar's build of course.. (and because I fubar'd my 1 piece attempt the first go-around) (DOH!) :dft001:
All parts
Rings attached:
Top section:
Side:
Angle:
Full:
Last:
The OD of the ring needs to be opened up to 1" to accept a blade still.. but thats really only about 10 minutes of work to do..
if it passes the test(s).. then I'll work on the shrouds or something.. wire it up.. and see what board it gets (if any)..
if it goes over well.. I always have the 'rule of two' for builds.. and there is parts to make another
Thanks gang.
-------------------------[update II]------------------------------------
just some quick update shots:
got the 3 windows in the top emitter shroud and the window in the grip shroud cut out by Tim (great work too, thanks Tim)
bike value
some bezels
and the delrin 'grip section' and I can focus on internals..
not sure if it will be than board/battery pack etc...
not too much room for a chassis!
some pics.
(I think she is turning out very nice.. no "Erik/Ace" version!..lol.. but nice to me!) and not too fat/chubby.
the shroud and BH fit like a glove.... and Tim's window cutout make it look so nice.
I put the lines/grooves in just about the perfect spot with the BH and the modified adapter 'seam' makes it less noticeable
Heres a pic with the ring on and all together.. (pic isnt so great..its look nice in person.)
more pics of the sleeve I turned down..with slight dip/bevel that i sent to Tim to be cut out.
A pic with the sleeve and the 'collar/ring' for the 1.25 inner and sleeve connector/support. (this part is being re-done for better tolerance fit....that god its not a hard part at all!..)
Some side/full length views:
no delrin inner grip section.. just a 'temp' all black filler...lol
hopefully I'll get some free time to wrap up the hilt stuff.
Thanks